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Motul Oil Q and A

Recently I had the chance to ask Garrett Andrews of Motul a few questions on their brand of oil. We've been running it for the past several years with great results, but with all the different oils out there, I wanted to ask him some questions that would be applicable and hopefully show why Motul is as good as it is, being a leader both on the track and off it via some specific test results as well – specifically one recent independent test being passed out during the Indy Dealer Show back in February.
To piggy-back off the Q&A, Honda East has offered some special pricing on Motul this month, which makes it a great buy. Now onto the questions with answers from Garrett:
Q. Why should I use Motul?
Motul has been around for more than 150 years. We started doing Ester technology over 30 years ago and as you'll see much of our competitors are now switching to esters. Ester is a by product from fatty acids, taken from vegetables (renewable resources). An ester is negatively charged meaning it bonds to metal. So when using our product you always have 1/1000000 of an inch barrier, so there’s never metal to metal contact, even if the bike is stored for long periods of time. 300V is our flagship, it contains a double ester – one ester for friction or rubbing and another ester for pressure.
Q. Which Motul product should I use in a race application?
For road racing use 300V would be the best to use as it offers the best protection. It's a cheap insurance in case something goes wrong. 300V has a very high boiling point at 367.
Q. What's the difference between the 5W/40 and the 10W/40 in terms of performance vs. protection?
Most racers use 5w40 for their 600's and 10w40 for their 1000's. The difference in performance vs. protection is the 1000 has much more load on gears and such, so the 5w40 would work but it will break down much faster. Also the 1000 doesn't get as affected by the thickness of the oil, so it doesn’t drag the engine down. On the 600 the 5w40 is more desirable because parts are moving faster and you want the oil to do the same so it doesn't slow anything down. Also there's not as much load so the oil doesn’t break down as it would in a 1000.
Q. What's the difference between 10W/30 and 10W/40 oils?
10w means 10 winter. This # is how the oil flows through a specified hole at 0 degrees. The second # is how the oil will flow at running temperature 210 degrees. These #'s are set by how fast it flows through the specified hole. This is determined by the Society of Automotive Engineers or SAE. Multi-grades are used because you need oil to flow thin when it is cold and thick when it's hot. The flow is measured by a viscometer, but put in SAE's easier numberings that are labeled on the bottles. So at 200+ degrees, the 10W/30 will flow faster than the 10W/40.
Q. How often should I change my oil and oil filter?
Performance oils have the same life span as any other oil. Everyday riding, refer to your manual to see when the manufacture recommends changing it. Under racing conditions, the oil should be changed between race weekends. The temp of the oil gets much hotter and breaks down much faster – especially when doing 3-6 races in a weekend, or even a day. Ideally the oil probably still has some miles to go on it, but that can depend on how modified the engine is and how many races really are done. So it may vary depending on the racer/rider.
Q. What is the relationship between protection and performance of a motor oil? Obviously the more power you can get the better, but you need to protect the motor as well. Some oils have claims that they offer higher horsepower performance. Is this a sacrifice to protection?
Correct. From what I've seen, for the companies that tend to claim this, the oil is very thin. So the less drag the more power you make. Lots of times people will use a thin oil or (qualifying oil) to get a better laps times during qualifying. Then at race time they'll go back to a thicker oil that will last through a 20-30 lap race.
The advantages of the 300V, is again, the film that the ester puts down and prevents metal to metal contact. A second advantage in the 300V series is that the ester has four to five times the film strength and tensile strength of others. It is again, more of an insurance policy. Compare cooking with butter and cooking with olive oil. If you leave the butter cooking too long in the frying pan, when it gets too hot, the oil will evaporate at a certain point (volatility), it will actually carbonize and leave a mess because it has overheated. The ester has a very high running temperature of 365 degrees in the 300V oil which will stand up to very high temperature in an emergency. You get the best of both worlds with the 300V.
Q: Why does 300V Racing oil cost more than off the shelf products?
An ester based synthetic is not pumped out of the ground. They are collected from vegetables, coconuts and Methyl products. It drives the prices way up. Mobil 1 and Castrol are designed for modern street cars. 300 V is designed for performance. Some of our products may be designed for energy conservation but they will never have energy conserving paramount and that is a complete difference in theory. We like to have some resistance on the rings because the rings are meant to seal. A total reduction of friction on the other hand is not very good for internal combustion motors. You have to have some properties to make sure the rings are sealing, etc. We use a different additive package and a different base. Other products are designed for moderate horsepower, moderate performance and moderate compression. What we do with the 300 V is develop it for high performance first, not a mileage situation. The 300V is the top of our line and has major portions of research and chemistry-modification research going on constantly.
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Now in terms of where can you get Motul, Honda East offers it and has great pricing on it as well. Here's what they're offering this month:
Motul 300V 5W30 Synthetic Ester, 1 liter : Regular Price: $17.59 HE Price: $12.13
Motul 300V 5W40 Synthetic Ester, 1 liter : Regular Price: $17.59 HE Price: $12.13
Motul 300V 5W40 Synthetic Ester, 4 liters: Regular Price: $62.99 HE Price: $43.59
Motul 300V 10W40 Synthetic Ester, 1 liter : Regular Price: $15.99 HE Price: $11.52
Motul 300V 10W40 Synthetic Ester, 4 liters: Regular Price: $53.99 HE Price: $37.04
Motul 300V 15W50 Synthetic Ester, 1 liter : Regular Price: $14.99 HE Price: $10.84
Motul 300V 15W50 Synthetic Ester, 4 liters: Regular Price: $53.99 HE Price: $41.41For ordering, talk to Tom Beagle (419.891.1230) and use discount code "HE48" to receive the special pricing.
If you have any other questions, pass them along here and I'll get them answered for you.
Cheers,
eddie
16 Comments on “Motul Oil Q and A”
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- You're currently reading "Motul Oil Q and A," an entry on Witchkraft Racing.
- Published: 12.2.08 / 10am
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Presumably, the 5w is thinner oil than the the 10w in the cold. So the 5 and 10 must correlate to viscosity measurement, where the the higher the number, the thicker the oil. But oil would be thinner at 210 degrees, so shouldn’t the second number be lower than the 5 and 10? Or is there a whole scaling shift? I guess the question is really if I look at a 10w40 vs 10w30 can I apply the same logic with the 40 and 30 as I can with the 5w and 10w? Is the higher of the second number thicker or thinner? Also, why does Motul smell like good German wheat beer?
Nik – here you go:
”
Ok,
Multi grade oils are measured at 0 and 100 degrees C (32 and 212 degrees F). The reason multi grade oils are used is to get the oil flowing to all the engine cavitys when it is cold and thicken up to maintain oil pressure and help prevent break down as the engine heats up.
So for example:
Say 5w40, the 5w means 5 winter so at 0 degrees C (32 F) the oil flows like a 5, the smaller the number the thinner it is and at 100 degrees C (212 F) the oil flows like a 40, the smaller the number the thinner it is. The way multi grade oils are achieved is by adding polymers also known as viscosity index improvers to thicken the oil as the tempurature increases.
The answer to the other question, why our oils smell good is because we ad a small amount of Fragrance to our oils.
Garrett
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So Nik – my question is .. if you’re looking strictly at performance, you’d want the 5W/30 because when you’re running around the track – you’re really not at the “5 winter” part of the oil, you’re into the “30 vs. 40″ part of it, I’m assuming ..
how much for shipping on a gallon to california?
Dimitris – I would call and double check, but it should be no more than $10. Number is 419.891.1230. Ask for Tom.
I ordered 4 liters of 10W-40 from Tom today. it was $10 shipping to california, just as an FYI.
Sweet. Thanks for the info.
Hey Tom,
I,m looking for Motul 300v 10w40 in 4L size shipped to zip 45040. can you send me info about how to order with a quote.
Thanks
Naveen
Naveen – $50 including shipping would be the cost. Please contact Tom (Beagle) at Honda East directly to place the order. 419.891.1230.
Thanks.
Hai Eddie,
Thank you! I’ll call Tom asap.
Naveen
I ordered 4L of motul 300v 10w40 from Tom today
Total was $50.63 including shipping to 45040
Thanks Eddie for your great support
Naveen
Glad we could help Naveen. Good luck with everything.
are these prices still valid?
Yes Dimitris. Just talk to Tom and mention the site here and he will take good care of you.
i’ve tried calling tom over the past week and left him a couple messages but he has not returned my calls. i’d like to order some oil. is this deal still going on?
Dimitris – I talked to Tom and he will have it taken care of today. Sorry for the delay. The deal is still going on.
Thanks.
thanks eddy. we got it worked out today. i really appreciate your assistance and prompt response. good luck out there!